Regular potatoes, uniform size, perfect skins. These are not what you’ll find on Anthony and Lucy Carroll’s farm at Tiptoe, close to the Scottish border. Their potatoes are knobbly, bobbly and healthily dirty. Cut them open and they’ll be creamy, yellowy, blue, pink and red. And they’ll have deliciously pompous names like Arran Victory, La Ratte (Asparges), Roseval 1950 and Highland Burgundy Red.

Anthony began working on the family farm in 1985. Disillusioned with modern potato crops - mass markets, no individuality - he began experimenting with traditional, often rare, pre-1950 varieties; the sort typically grown on allotments. It was hard work. For some of the rarer varieties, the Carrolls worked from very little seed and it took several seasons of hand planting and hand picking to get a useful crop.