December 1st, 2011
When the weather is ruthlessly cold, cabbage makes such a comforting vegetable. It originally grew wild on Northern coastlines, as sea kale, the ancestor of all cabbage varieties; a hardy plant with thick, smooth, waxy leaves. Appreciated first for it’s medicinal qualities, the cabbage soon became a source of good nourishment and is the base of many good stews.
There are two groups of cabbage grown in cultivation, the round type with very tightly held leaves which may be white, green or red and kale which has curly green or violet leaves. Everyone has his or her favourite.
Try and buy fresh cabbage that has been recently cut. It should seem heavy for its size. The leaves should be shiny and firm, they should squeak under your fingers and give off a drop of water when they are torn. The cut of the stalk should be clean, without discolouration.
Cabbage does not keep particularly well so it should be cooked without delay and remember, cabbage shrinks by more than half during cooking.
To prepare cabbage, begin by removing and discarding the large outer leaves. Cut out the stem and quarter the cabbage. Remove the central core without separating the leaves too much. Wash in a large bowl of water, spreading them out well to remove any dirt or insects. Place the quarters in boiling, salted water, boil on a high heat for 10 – 15 minutes until the cabbage is fairly tender. Cool the quarters in iced water, and then drain quickly. Press them firmly between two flat plates to squeeze out excess water. Cabbage can be then be prepared in many ways, either very simply by slicing into ¾” wide strips and putting in a saucepan with a knob of butter and seasonings over a low heat . Great as an accompaniment to fish, poultry, pork or game ( a young spring cabbage does not need to be blanched, it can be simply sliced and stewed in a little butter) Or, in more complicated preparations such as cabbage stuffed with pork and vegetables and braised slowly to create a heart warming winter lunch.
Things that work well with cabbage: – pork, bacon, cream, game, truffles, caraway, juniper, apples, butter, carrots, onions, foie gras,